Wednesday, July 1, 2009

The North West of Mallorca

Continuing our series of articles on the island of Mallorca in the Balearic Islands, Spain, this week we look at the north western region. This is an area of rugged coastline backed by the northern edge of the Serra de Tramuntana mountains, offering some spectacular scenery and a number of interesting historical sights. North of Andratx you will find a succession of ‘miradors’, many with the added attraction of an ancient watchtower, which warned of attacking pirates in long past centuries, these ‘miradors’ are high points from which to gain commanding views of the coastline. In the extreme west you will find the small rocky island of Sa Dragonera, situated about 1 kilometre offshore from Sant Elm. While legend tells that the island is frequently visited by dragons, visitors are more likely to catch a glimpse of one of the many bird species which inhabit it, including a large colony of the rare Eleanora’s Falcon. Sa Dragonera has been a Nature Reserve since 1988 and its only human inhabitants, man the 2 lighthouses, which warn local shipping of the islands existence. Sa Dragonera can be reached by ferry from Sant Elm during the summer months (May to September), there are also boat trips around the island available from Port Andratx and Sant Elm. The town of Andratx is a charming place, with cobbled streets and pretty houses. Andratx has a long history and was known to the Romans as Andrachium, it lies at the foot of the Puig de Galatzó mountain (3,400 feet). Worth visiting in Andratx is the fortified church of Santa Maria, originally dating from the 13th century, if you visit on a Wednesday, you can also enjoy the town’s weekly market. Neighbouring Port Andratx is popular with the rich and famous and has become an exclusive resort, in the harbour you will see luxury yachts moored alongside local fishing craft, you might even spot a celebrity, as such famous people as Tom Cruise and Michael Schumacher, have homes there. The nearby Reserva Puig de Galatzó is a nature reserve that you will not want to miss, boasting some picturesque scenery and also a few surprises including some brown bears, there are adventure tours and activities including abseiling, rock climbing, flying foxes (zip wires), trekking, canoeing, mountain biking and orienteering, all taking place amongst beautiful mountains and waterfalls. Another of the interesting north western towns is Valldemossa, made famous by French writer George Sand (Aurora Dupin) and her lover, Polish composer Frederick Chopin, who stayed there during the winter of 1838-39. They arrived to escape the gossip mongers of Paris and also in the hope that the climate would benefit Chopin’s failing health (he suffered from tuberculosis). Ironically that winter was one of the worst on record, and the hoped for recovery never happened. The couple were not welcomed by the local population as they were unmarried, and Sand was particularly unpopular as she arrogantly strolled around the town in men’s clothes, smoking cigars. Sand later wrote about their stay, in the short book ‘A Winter in Mallorca’, in which she called the locals “thieves and savages”, she was mostly bitter about the appalling Mallorca weather, which they experienced that year, and did not hepl Chopin's ill health. The most popular attraction in Valldemossa is the Royal Carthusian Monastery, a former Royal palace dating from the 14th century, it was in a monk’s cell (known as Chopin’s Cell),within the monastery that Chopin and Sand stayed during that fateful winter. The monastery also contains much of interest including an old pharmacy and an art museum with works by Pablo Picasso, Joan Miro and Juli Ramis amongst others. Also worth a visit is the ancient town of Sóller, located in the shadow of the Puig Major (4,740 feet), Sóller became rich through the production of oranges, olive oil and wine, during the Arab occupation of Mallorca (8th to 13th centuries). In Sóller you should take a look at the Modernista Banco de Sóller, the Neo-Gothic Sant Bartomeu church, the Casa de Cultura and the Plaça Constitució. Mallorca Map